Suspension & steering repair
Smooth over bumps, steady in every turn.
Bouncing, clunking, wandering or a steering wheel that fights you? We inspect your suspension and steering from the tires to the top mounts, show you what’s worn and fix only what you approve.
Warning signs
Notice a change in the ride?
Suspension and steering parts wear gradually, so the change sneaks up on you. If any of these sound familiar, it’s worth an inspection.
Clunking with loose or wandering steering? Have it checked soon. Worn ball joints and tie rod ends affect how well you can control the vehicle, and in severe cases a part can separate. Call us and we’ll advise whether it’s safe to drive in.
- Bouncing or floating that keeps going after a dip or bump
- The nose dives when you brake, or the body leans hard in turns
- Clunks or knocks over bumps, potholes or driveway edges
- Wandering, drifting or loose steering that needs constant correction
- Uneven, cupped or scalloped tire wear
- A hum or growl that rises with speed, often a wheel bearing
- Steering that feels stiff or heavy, or whines and groans when you turn
Shocks vs. struts
Same job, different design.
Both control how your vehicle bounces, leans and dives. The difference is how much of the suspension each one carries, and that changes what a replacement involves.
Shock absorber
A sealed, oil-filled damper that slows the spring’s movement. The spring, not the shock, carries the vehicle’s weight.
- Common at the rear of many cars, and at both ends of many trucks and SUVs
- Replacing shocks usually doesn’t change your alignment
- Best replaced in pairs on the same axle for even handling
Strut
A damper built into a structural assembly that also holds the spring and helps locate the wheel, so it carries weight and affects steering.
- Found at the front of most cars and crossovers
- Often replaced as a ready-to-install assembly with a new spring and mount
- An alignment is recommended afterward, since struts help set the wheel angles
Not sure which your vehicle has? Many have struts up front and shocks in the rear. We’ll tell you exactly what’s on yours.
What we do
Everything between the tires and the body.
Shocks & struts
Leaking or worn dampers replaced in axle pairs, including complete strut assemblies with new springs and mounts when needed.
Springs & ride height
Broken or sagging coil and leaf springs replaced so the vehicle sits level and carries loads evenly.
Control arms & ball joints
Cracked bushings and loose ball joints replaced to stop clunks and keep each wheel where it belongs.
Tie rods & sway bar links
Worn tie rod ends and sway bar links, two of the most common causes of loose steering and rattles over bumps.
Wheel bearings & hubs
That hum that rises with speed, confirmed on the lift and fixed with a quality bearing or hub assembly.
Power steering
Hydraulic pumps, hoses, racks and fluid, plus electric power steering diagnosis when the wheel turns heavy or a light comes on.
Our suspension process
Feel it, find it, fix it.
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Listen & road test
Tell us what you’re feeling and hearing. We drive it over the same kinds of bumps and turns.
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Lift & inspect
With the wheels off the ground, we check for play in joints, leaking shocks, torn boots, cracked bushings and bearing noise.
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Clear quote
You see what’s worn and get a written estimate, with what’s urgent and what can wait.
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Repair & align
We make the repair, align the vehicle when the work calls for it and road test it again.
Suspension FAQ
Ride and steering questions, answered.
Still unsure? Call us and describe what you’re feeling or hearing. We’ll tell you if it can wait.
Good to know: new tires wear out faster on worn suspension. If you’re replacing tires, ask us to check the suspension and alignment at the same visit.
How long do shocks and struts last?
It varies with the vehicle, your roads and how you drive, so there isn’t one number. Many manufacturers and technicians suggest having them inspected around 50,000 miles, then regularly after that. Leaks, excessive bouncing or uneven tire wear are signs they’re due sooner.
What causes a clunk when I go over bumps?
Common causes include worn sway bar links, control arm bushings, ball joints or strut mounts, and sometimes a loose exhaust part or heat shield. A clunk means something has play in it, so it’s worth having checked soon, especially if the steering also feels loose.
How do I know if it’s a wheel bearing?
A worn wheel bearing usually makes a hum or growl that rises with speed and may change when you steer gently left or right, since that shifts weight on or off the bearing. On some vehicles it can also trigger an ABS light. We confirm it on the lift by checking for play and roughness.
Do I need an alignment after suspension work?
Often, yes. Replacing struts, tie rods, control arms or other parts that locate the wheel can change the alignment angles. An alignment afterward protects your tires and keeps the vehicle tracking straight. Replacing shocks alone usually doesn’t require one. We’ll tell you when it’s needed.
Why does my power steering whine?
On hydraulic systems, a whine that gets louder as you turn the wheel often points to low or worn-out fluid, a leak or a tired pump. Have leaks looked at early, since running the pump low on fluid can damage it. Electric power steering doesn’t use fluid, so a noise or a heavy wheel there has other causes, which we can diagnose.